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Author Topic: Bright room & GHH  (Read 17996 times)
steve f
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« on: February 16, 2013, 01:26:48 PM »

Ed,

After months of trying to live with it, I have decided that in my VERY acoustically live room, I need to bring down the volume of the Heils just a bit.

Suggestions? Anybody else having this "problem" besides me?

Steve
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Magidrakee
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« Reply #1 on: February 16, 2013, 02:47:57 PM »

I have had the GHH for 2-3 weeks, and I have the exact same problem. In fact, I was also preparing to post about that. I like how revealing the Heil driver is, but to my ears (and/or room), it would need to be a little less upfront. I tried to remove the cap in the V2 crossover, but we then seem to lose all the magic.

I have seen somewhere that some old ESS speakers had a knob on the back for "bright" modes selection (normal, bright). Would something similar be possible to add to the GHH?
« Last Edit: February 16, 2013, 03:25:19 PM by Magidrakee » Logged
steve f
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« Reply #2 on: February 16, 2013, 07:04:33 PM »

I have hardwood floors, three large windows, and 5/8" drywall with insulation, even on interior walls. There is not much give in any of the surfaces. This is one live sounding room. The funny thing is that only my quasi-ribbon planar tweeters seem to have this effect. Some domes are actually muffled sounding. Go figure.

I'm not sure if I want to just pad down the Heils a decibel or two, or work on a circuit to tilt down the upper range only. I did play around with a few different crossover frequencies. (That didn't help at all) I doubt placing foam, fiber, etc. Behind the Heil would do much good either. I love the electrostatic like detail with better dynamics I'm getting now.

Steve
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steve f
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« Reply #3 on: February 16, 2013, 07:26:06 PM »

I just tried padding down the original parallel (ver. 1) crossover. I installed a potentiometer. Just a bit of attenuation helps a lot in my room. I'll eventually try messing up the series crossover too.

Steve  Cool
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Capt. Z
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« Reply #4 on: February 16, 2013, 11:57:17 PM »

You could try a different cap. I had bought some caps with slightly lower value to experiment, but for my taste I returned to the original one. In fact I still have them laying around here. Send me a pm if you want them.
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Henry
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« Reply #5 on: February 17, 2013, 07:30:43 AM »

I once used a good quality Mills 1 ohm resistor at the Heil terminal to attenuate the highs a bit when I was using the early x-over for the model 2.  It did the trick, but your pot. makes sense at this point so you can adjust things to the point of no return.   Grin

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sonic
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« Reply #6 on: February 17, 2013, 09:31:25 AM »

I have hardwood floors, three large windows, and 5/8" drywall with insulation, even on interior walls. There is not much give in any of the surfaces. This is one live sounding room. The funny thing is that only my quasi-ribbon planar tweeters seem to have this effect. Some domes are actually muffled sounding. Go figure.

I'm not sure if I want to just pad down the Heils a decibel or two, or work on a circuit to tilt down the upper range only. I did play around with a few different crossover frequencies. (That didn't help at all) I doubt placing foam, fiber, etc. Behind the Heil would do much good either. I love the electrostatic like detail with better dynamics I'm getting now.
If the problem is the room, then deal with the room.  Here's a good read.  http://www.realtraps.com/rfz.htm
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steve f
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« Reply #7 on: February 17, 2013, 01:47:01 PM »

Henry, Sonic, Capt. Z,

Thanks guys, I think the problem is solved. Like as in Henry's room, just a bit of attenuation seems to be the correct solution. I haven't measured yet, but about one Ohm would be a good guess.

I've got a good supply of coils, caps, resistors, and pots, so I may try to build a mild 'tilt' for the high frequencies, but at this point, I doubt it's necessary. The series crossover will take a bit more effort to get right.

Steve
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Magidrakee
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« Reply #8 on: February 18, 2013, 08:03:45 AM »

If you figure out something for the series crossover, please let me know. What did you do with the parallel one? L-Pad in front of the tweeter? Or just a resistor (pot) in series?
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Capt. Z
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« Reply #9 on: February 18, 2013, 08:52:58 AM »

Why using an L-pad??? Though small it probably will degrade the sound just a little.

I had tried other caps with slightly smaller value then Ed specified and I got less high frequency output. O returned to the value Ed gave, since I felt it gave the best response for me.
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Magidrakee
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« Reply #10 on: February 18, 2013, 09:18:47 AM »

Capt.Z: Will lowering the cap value lower the frequency response, or reduce the global volume output of the Heil?
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sonic
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« Reply #11 on: February 18, 2013, 09:25:24 AM »

Capt.Z: Will lowering the cap value lower the frequency response, or reduce the global volume output of the Heil?
http://www.diyaudioandvideo.com/Calculator/XOver/
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Magidrakee
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« Reply #12 on: February 18, 2013, 10:00:32 AM »

Capt.Z: Will lowering the cap value lower the frequency response, or reduce the global volume output of the Heil?
http://www.diyaudioandvideo.com/Calculator/XOver/

I am speaking of the Series crossover. I feel that the frequency split is accurate between the drivers, and I don't really want to play with that. I just want to pad the heil's output a bit.
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Capt. Z
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« Reply #13 on: February 18, 2013, 10:08:40 AM »

The cap will lower the upper frequency response.

It will do exactly what you want it to do, make the Heils 'less bright'.
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Magidrakee
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« Reply #14 on: February 18, 2013, 10:14:48 AM »

The cap will lower the upper frequency response.

It will do exactly what you want it to do, make the Heils 'less bright'.

Thanks!
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